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Astor Place address, actually entered from Cooper Square, inside Gwathmey Siegel’s glass atrocity. Grown-up interior highlighted by wine wall with 1,500 bottles from across the globe. Menu refers to them as “the greatest liquid treasures on earth,” if you’re trying to scope the degree of obsessiveness. Small plates just as painstakingly sourced, from Bouchon, D’Artagnan, and Murray’s. Mac ‘n’ cheese takes the upgrade with lobster and black truffle. Rare pocket of sophistication close to St. Marks.

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