In Healdsburg bastion of elegan-tay Hotel les Mars (a Relais & Chateaux property, darling), this is a tasting-menu-only affair. And an affair it is, indeed. Tiny wood paneled room seats just 16, looks airlifted from Burgundy. Menu surprisingly free of haute: duck liver mousse, shots of English pea soup, cocoa carbonara with pancetta, seared dayboat scallops. Wine pairings exquisitely considered. But of course.