Who beats the Italians for style? Top StudioTEKA design hits whitewashed tenement bricks, candlelit nooks, exposed bulbs. Original and refined takes on tweaked Italian. Mozzarella sampler plated purty as sushi. Lemongrass sparks steamed mussels, with tomato broth like a Thai cioppino. WTF sarde alla Piastra mixes sardine with shaved fennel, pine nut-raisin relish, and…a slab of pink grapefruit. And makes it work. The result, for once, is actual substance to accompany style of a new LES import.