Stella 34 Trattoria

Historic 1901 department store at last has a commissary it deserves, with Neapolitan pies, Italian classics, and three wood-burning ovens. Jonathan Benno of Lincoln works up the menu, joins forces with a legit Master Piazzaiolo Napoletano. Caputo flour, San Marzanos, and American H2O matched to Naples springwater on the pies. Regional approach continues in salumi, small plates, and house-made pastas like the “priest strangler” (strozzapreti). Modern interior livened up with Risko’s art, but gets stiff competition from ESB and Broadway views through the original bay windows.

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