Don’t ask for Mr. Smith or Mr. Wollensky: names were pulled from the New York phonebook. Could be the most classic of Manhattan steakhouses, serving up meat of every incarnation. Big men in expertly tailored suits keep the world at bay in this neatly latticed, windowless bunker. Service is experienced and unobtrusive. Wollensky’s Grill room expertly covers those 1am hand-cut filet au poivre cravings. Try the filet mignon with Roquefort, or better yet, with smoky Cajun spices. Or anything, for that matter.