Peruvian chainlet hits the UWS with rotisserie chicken for the whole damn familia. Even the fussiest abuela will approve of the Matador combo: juicy whole chicken marinated in cilantro, chili, and garlic, and served up for the table with rice, beans, tostones, and salchipapas (french fries topped with sausage, hard to believe Amuricans didn’t invent that first). Or strike out on your own with parihuela: seafood soup with rocoto hot peppers and Peruvian beer. Warm golden walls, exposed brick, and curvy banquettes attract chatty crowd, as do the ceramic pitchers full of house sangria.

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