Michael White of Ai Fiori, et al does an Italian steakhouse south of Houston. Two-story dining room pops with bright orange and red lighting. Signature rib-eye, served off the bone with lemon and rosemary, shares menu space with other 28-day aged cuts, seafood crudo, top pastas. Rum-raisin semifreddo for dessert. Eben Freeman laces the cocktail list with local gin, while the wine list goes 500 deep.