Church & State

Tony Esnault now helms the kitchen of this Steve Arroyo hotspot, turning out French-French, rather then a Cali-ized version of it. A Grande Charcuterie and a La Bastide Saint Dominique, Châteauneuf du Pape would make for night in itself. But the bouillabaisse and poitrine de porc are not to be missed. The space is an old Nabisco factory, but inside looks pretty much like Paris.

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