Milan Fashion Week: Ferragamo S/S 2022 Runway Show

Not for nothing, but that the electricity of Fashion Weeks and runway shows has returned to our calendars does really carry with it a genuine socio-cultural significance. It’s heartening, in fact, that at this time when we’re still struggling away from a global pandemic (as well as its attendant lockdowns), and the threat of infection is still swirling around us, the business of style is re-taking center stage. It says, “we care about our clothes again” – and boy, do we really need to care about our clothes again.

Ferragamo, we must say, have been a reliable friend through all these months of lonely on and off quarantine, launching a branded online trivia game last spring, following with a podcast series that featured the likes of Jessica Alba and Isabella Rosselini, and transporting us to their home city of Florence, for a virtual tour of the SILK exhibition at their namesake museum this past March.

But while all that was great and fashionable fun, nothing makes us happier than to see them back on the physical runway (this time at the 18th Century baroque masterpiece Rotonda della Besana), which they very much were for the most recent Milan Fashion Week. Heading up the star power was Brooke Shields, who attended with her daughter Grier Henchy – and they were joined by actors Ashton Sanders (Wu-Tang: An American Saga), Ross Butler (13 Reasons Why), and Ashley Benson (Pretty Little Liars).

Most intriguingly, Guillaume Meilland, who was tapped by the house to oversee menswear in 2017, took his first stab at designing for women. And for the task, he reached back to the 1960s and ’70s for inspiration, for instance taking stylistic cures from Luis Buñuel’s iconic 1977 film That Obscure Object of Desire.

Overall the collection feels cooly bohemian, and “billowy” is an adjective that can be applied liberally. Flowing caftans, classical printed jumpers, apron dresses and wide-legged pants all suggested an insouciant sense of freedom – which sounds exactly right for these times, as we hopefully begin to leave behind this overwhelming health crisis, and enter a new period characterized by far less daily anxiety.

Notably, the collection’s signature is a revived 1970’s floral motif from the Ferragamo archives, which was reimagined by French artist Julien Colombier.

With all eyes on his first go at womenswear, Meilland smartly didn’t attempt to make a “statement” – but rather, made a definitive statement on how it is we’ll surely want to dress in 2022.

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