See what Olivier Theyskens Has Been Cooking Up at Theory

Earlier this week news broke that Olivier Theyskens, the wunderkind designer who had been let go from both Rochas and Nina Ricci in the last five years, was finally embarking on a full-fledged return to fashion via the Japanese-owned Theory. Theyskens broke his design hiatus this past year when he designed a capsule collection for the minimalist label, which debuted at FW10 fashion week. He was subsequently hired on as the company’s artistic director, overseeing Theory’s entire women’s ready-to-wear collection. Now, just a week after the news surfacing, so have images of Theyskens’ entire line for Theory SS11. Behold bare midriffs aplenty, as well as the draped, dramatic, yet sleek silhouettes with which Theyskens has been synonymous for well over a decade.

Hemlines on skirts and dresses are floor-grazing in keeping with a dominant theme at SS11 fashion month, and denim is likewise worn low, hitting somewhere around mid-hip. Many of Theyskens’ trousers for spring are cropped – that is, when they’re not long and full and flared. The former is a bit Thom Browne with a dose of Hedi Slimane circa Dior Homme thrown in for good measure; the latter offers an interesting avant-garde interpretation of the 70s silhouette reintroduced so strongly by Celine this past spring. Sumptuous leather pants and a minidress also make an appearance in a collection whose palette is predominantly black and olive or navy hued. Its mood is simultaneously dark, brooding, and ethereal. Considering it marks Theyskens’ successful transition into contemporary wear (keeping in mind his critics often cited the inaccessible price point of his designs as his downfall), it’s a collection that, overall, looks bright.

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