Marc Jacobs and Prada Try Something New
With roughly a week left of major FW10 fashion week presentations, it’s prime time to start reflecting on all that we’ve seen these past few weeks. Stylistic constants included loads of furs and luxe fabrics, as well as skirt suits (and knee-high hosiery) of which Cher Horowitz would surely approve. But on two of the most influential catwalks from the West Side Highway to Milan–Marc Jacobs and Prada, respectively–the overall aesthetic was drastically different than the dominating styles we’ve seen on catwalks in recent seasons past. From over-the-knee boots and bustiers to underwear as outerwear and ‘no pants,’ leading trends the last two seasons have screamed lady of the night, albeit a high-priced one. Now, it seems some of fashion’s heaviest hitters are leading a call to arms for a more conservative, less overtly sexy conception of beauty.
Over at Marc Jacobs FW10, hemlines dropped substantially from the requisite minis of FW09 and hit somewhere below the knee. Meanwhile, cuts were more forgiving, while necklines were as innocent as the show’s soundtrack: ‘Somewhere Over the Rainbow.’ Prada followed suit with loose fitting styles that fell just above the calf and, as Cathy Horyn says, were befitting of “women oblivious of fads, brands, red carpets and warnings about taking the extra helping.”
And, to fill her ruffled, embellished busts, Miuccia Prada even hired on a few models with more décolletage than the standard crop of size zero mannequins, including Victoria Secret models Alessandra Ambrosio, Doutzen Kroes and Miranda Kerr. Horyn for one found the look to be a bit “dated”; although she raved in response to Jacob’s collection. The former may have failed to forge any real new fashion territory, but the move away from hyper-sexualized styles no doubt feels refreshing in the face of a recent abundance of body-con and flesh-fueled fashion.