Eating and Drinking by the Reopened Smith-Ninth Street Station
The Smith-Ninth Street subway station is the tallest in the world, which should be cause for some civic pride. Unfortunately, tumbledown infrastructure and ratty innards have long kept riders from luxuriating in the skyline views. Two years and a cool $32 million later, the F and G have at last returned to this stretch of Brooklyn. The station’s new façade is unexpectedly space-age, putting aside eighty years of industrial cred for a look that’s more Funkadelic than Wilco. Although the Gowanus may not quite be ready for destination dining status, both sides of the canal have some great places for getting your eat and drink on, accessible once again by the grace of the MTA.
Buttermilk Channel takes its name from a nearby stretch of Brooklyn waterfront, although buttermilk fried chicken with cheddar waffles is what put it on the map. If you’re looking for a killer brunch and don’t mind a wait, this is your place. Just up Court you’ll find Prime Meats, where the two Frankies take their eyes off the boot for a look back at Germany and old New York. The biggest raves are for the burgers: hefty half-pounders of Creekstone Black Angus, tender and packed with flavor.
A couple of doors up is the Falcinelli and Castronovo original, Frankies 457 Spuntino, where the pork braciola marinara and housemade pappardelle are sublime, and everything else is merely mind-blowing. Nearby La Slowteria is a neighborhood newcomer with a line in Mexican slow food. Duck comes pulled and stuffed in a crispy potato taco, slow cooked in posole stew, or paired with black mole. If it’s barbecue you’re craving, Fletcher’s has the hookup, with a maple- and oak-fueled barbecue pit imported from Texas. That should hold you until the new Dinosaur Bar-B-Que comes online. Another GoWo player is Bar Tano, which compensates for a trafficky corner with a chill Euro interior. The kitchen turns out better than solid bruschette, americo burgers, and lightly charred pizzas.
On the boozy end of things, Abilene and Lowlands peeps bookend the Gowanus with a pair of low-key neighborhood drinkeries. A little closer to Smith-9th is Draft Barn, where 250 brews have been culled from every corner of the earth for your sampling pleasure. On an even bigger scale is The Bell House, an instant G-Slope classic with stellar booking. Tonight the concert hall turns into Wasablanca—a mashup of Casablanca inspirations and Wasabassco burlesque. Wait until tomorrow and can catch epic dance party The Rub. Dance party Mister Sunday is back for at least one more summer at neraby Gowanus Grove. This year’s sessions start on May 12th, with Brooklyn brews, dancing under the poplar grove, and huaraches from the Country Boys. There are worse places to contemplate the Smith-Ninth viaduct, and wonder why they built it so damn high. (Okay, it’s for the tall ships that once plied the pristine waters of the canal.)
Photo by City of Strangers/Flickr.
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