New York » Restaurant » Brooklyn » Japanese
Homesick Tokyo native opens a traditional izakaya, creates temple to dining in peace and privacy. Three-floor labyrinth of lantern-lit hallways leads to mahogany booths separated by bamboo curtains. Don't worry about being over-attended; waiters check in only when summoned via call buttons. You won't find sushi here, but elegant small plates -- mostly under $10 -- like slow-cooked pork kakuni (it builds flavor over three days), hot soba noodles, and grilled rice balls. Grapefruit agar gelée, made with seaweed, for dessert.
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