Ultra-patriotic Nolita deli denies entry to San Marzano tomatoes, stocks only Italian-American mozz and evoo. Miss Iowa La Quercia prosciutto piled high on Parisi bakery rolls, repping New York. Beans and bacon by the pound, fat turkey heroes make for Vespa-less lunch. Sit-down dinner service is five courses from Café Boulud and A Voce-trained owners. Nightly rotating menu of antipasti, pasta, and secondi, supersized with an ices and a pastry round. All-American vino list definitely does not still live with mamma.