The John Dory Oyster Bar

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John Dory redux: April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman get a mulligan, relaunch their seafood cynosure with more of a Mediterranean slant in the Ace Hotel. Global accents, like raw bar red snapper with grapefruit and Szechuan pepper, legendary oyster pan roast with uni butter. Full-on caviar service, eel and parsley pie, clams with bone marrow. Glass fish panes from original location get a second life, complementing black tiles, vaulted ceiling, almost-Mod blue and green bar stools.