Editorial Review

Okay, dear Sylvia has gone on to her great reward, and her eponymous restaurant is not the historic institution it used to be (i.e. tourists and uptown-visa packing downtowners outnumber locals), but what is? The cozy Harlem hole still cranks out the classics—fried chicken and waffles, mac and cheese, red velvet cake—with machine-like efficency without losing, well, their soul. Don't expect much from the deco, which is living room-esque in the dining room and nothing above your average kitchen at the lunch counter. Worried about what to order? Don't be: everything's solid, and it'll feel that way in your stomach, too. So it goes; splurge for your taste buds, it won't hurt your wallet. Don't forget to knock back a Sugar Hill or two while you're there, as it's a hard beer to find anywhere else.