Matt Levine’s mashup of old and new LES. For the tenementy side, it’s vintage black and whites, shelves cluttered with antiques, working deli up front. For the modern, look for high-wattage crowd lounging around leather banquettes. Space is rustic, with plenty of wood, sunken dining room. Menu nods to local heritage: salsa verde on the Loisaida Skirt Steak, fried Guss’s pickles, short ribs braised in man-oh-Manischewitz.