Deco drama writ large. Lush-posh spot will have you flashing back to 1930 Shanghai. Or maybe L.A. Attention to detail evident in gold-plated cutlery, palate-cleansing sorbet, corsages for the ladies. Business deals clinched at lunchtime, Hideki Matsui and Chow Yun-Fat sightings at dinner. With all that atmosphere, food comes second: Chinese-American faves like sweet and sour pork, sesame beef, and lemon chicken. ‘K?