Editorial Review

Despite taking its name from a children's card game, Cindy Pawlcyn's seafooder could be mistaken for a more serious place than it is. The mash-up between a classic oyster bar and a sushi joint toys with the idea of being formal. Sure, the stone-faced sushi chefs appear somber and there's a Redweld legal folder-worth of wines to choose from, but then, well, the wine list is in an actual Redweld. Striking the difference between raw bar and sushi bar, the brief but expansive menu runs the gamut from traditional nigiri and sashimi to local oysters and in-season dungeness crab, but the vibe is pure white-tiled and brass-fixtured chophouse (with the nod to the occasional carp here and there).