Grownup version of equally obese Billyburg sis. (So grown up, it’s the first of the Fattys to serve dessert, showing off exotics like sherbet and menthol ice, or durian-chili-pineapple sorbet.) Zak P. sprinkles his magical Malaysian spices on smoked goat, lamb, brisket. Thumper never tasted better than as buttermilk-fried rabbit with shrimp paste marinade. Fancy cocktails, Thai-style bottle service. Sophisticated look courtesy of banquettes, exposed brick, flattering lights.