Boulud on the Bowery, mashes up high/low, uptown/downtown, French brasserie/all-American tavern. Modern space nods to area’s recent history, stacks its shelves like a kitchen supply store. Food leans toward comfort, as in sausages, hot dogs, matzoh ball soup. Two burgers topped with pork, but opt for the classic Yankee, served with a legit Lower East Side pickle. Comfort extends to the booze, with a strong showing in craft beers and a more or less moderate wine list. Gabba Gabba Hey!