Editorial Review

Americans unfortunately tend to associate fusion-y sushi trattorias with traditional Japanese cuisine, when the street-level izakaya is much closer to the soul of urban Japanese cuisine. Owners Tad and Zerlayna Horie are in on this truth, and with Ozumo chef Armando Justo have recreated a rich, varied, authentic menu referencing Tokyo and Osaka. Cleverly-if-slightly-overdesigned interior is organized and welcoming, defined by grey slate and recycled wood. Expect cute Asian girl/white guy couples, snacking on kakuni (braised pork belly) and kara-age chicken. Get adventurous with grilled meats: eel, beef tongue, duck breast and pork ribs. Combine with crisp flight of sake to cool the palette.