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Led by young chef Ari Taymor, Alma is hot thanks to its Californian-French dishes teeming with farmer’s market produce. Even the basket of homemade bread and butter is a feast for the tastebuds, which extends to the well-known seaweed beignets, suckling pig and brussel sprouts, and the squid-ink ice cream, a black orb of which sits on a dish of dry-aged steak tartare. Though the slightly disheveled, not-quite-done-yet decor doesn’t match the level of the food, it adds a bohemian feel that’s fitting to its culinary innovation.